French Fashion Icons: Jane Birkin

A look back at the fashion icon Jane Birkin

The recent passing of Jane Birkin earlier this year marks the end of an era in fashion which began in the 1960s.  She was a British singer, actress and fashion icon that shot to fame in France and her style still inspires enthusiasts both in the UK and across the channel today. Hèrmes even named a bag after her – the Birkin bag.

Let’s take a look at the rise of ‘Birkin’ style and why she became such an influencer of Fashion. Born on 14 December 1946, the daughter of an actress, she followed in her mother’s footsteps and appeared in several English films in the 1960s. She caught the attention of the media when she appeared naked in the film Blow Up in 1966.

At one with exposing her sexuality and living in the fast lane even then, she was already married to the composer of the Bond theme, John Barry whom she met at just 17 years old and married a year later, the marriage lasted just three years.

She rose to iconic prominence, however, as a British singer and actress living in France when she became romantically involved with the French composer Serge Gainsbourg. Their relationship made headline news and he wrote the controversial song ‘J’taime moi non-plus’ for her on which she added her sultry tones this later became the soundtrack of the film in which she starred.

From the beginning, Jane was of major fashion icon in the industry as she captivated a generation of adoring fans with her innocent gaze and boyish looks. She was one of the most photographed women of her day. She was one of the first women to wear the sheer ‘Naked Dress’ to the French premiere of the film Slogan in 1969, way before it grabbed headlines with Cher and Kate Moss.

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In the sixties, she was an advocate of slimline mini dresses and skirts made famous by Paco Raban. Jane eagerly embraced the new shorter and controversial length, which was youthful and bold for its time, expressing the newfound liberation of women’s sexuality which many attributed to the wide availability of the contraceptive pill. 

With such an androgynous figure for which she claimed she was bullied at school, Birkin’s silhouette was perfect for this look. She wore several versions of the mini – often playing with psychedelic patterns from Pucci in bold colours – another signature of the era.

The designer Mary Quant was also a significant player in creating these new liberating styles which Birkin would team with Baker boy caps and high-legged suede boots which also were styled in PVC, a space space-age fabric of the time reflecting major social events such as the moon landings. 

In the 1960s and 1970’s she also captivated audiences with her effortlessly bohemian style that was casual yet chic at the same time. She pioneered the way for many to follow such as Kate Moss and Sienna Miller. Jane wore long flowing bohemian ethnic print dresses and floppy hats way before most celebrities that we assign the look to today.

Heavy eyeliner and neutral lips heightened with her doe-eyed stare and chiselled features created endless iconic styled images for fashion photographers. Despite appearing overtly sexual in many photoshoots with Gainsbourg which captivated a mesmerized audience, her own style was often quite the opposite. Later in life, she became famous for her more natural appearance. Her everyday make-up was always minimal, which only served to emphasize her fresh-faced beauty.

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Her free-flowing hair, characterized by layers of varying length, tousled in appearance that added texture. These two factors became a Jane Birkin signature, just as much as her clothes. This relaxed carefree and slightly unkempt vibe implied limited effort yet done with style showed an air of unconcerned confidence.

Jane Birkin chose baggy jeans and men’s shirts in de-stressed fabrics which added to this worn-in look that was a forerunner to Grunge in the 1990s. She was photographed wherever she went. An almost Instagram catalogue of her life existed way before such social media came about.  

Jane Birkin also took simplicity to a sophisticated level. The high-waisted jeans and basic white T-shirts that she sported on many occasions helped to embed a timeless look in French fashion history and can be seen as strong as ever on the high street today. 

Yet at the same time, Jane Birkin could make a simple look sophisticated and “Fashionably chic”, combining current fashion trends with an element of elegance and refinement. Her simpler outfits and overall appearance were not only stylish and up-to-date but also carried an air of effortless grace and taste which was down to her attention to detail, coordination, and an overall sense of aesthetic harmony.

Her accessories always gave her the edge. Her carefree lifestyle was reflected in the many straw totes that she carried alongside her outfits with style, adding elegance as she confidently expressed her affinity with nature. A romantic nod to the past may have an instant charm appeal.

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She became famous for her bags, so much so that in 1981, Birkin was seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, the Chief Executive of Hermès, on a flight from Paris to London. During the flight, Birkin expressed her frustration with the lack of practical and stylish bags that could accommodate her needs as a busy mother.

She described her ideal bag, which would be spacious, yet elegant and easy to carry. Et voila, the birth of the Birkin bag took place. An accessory that is worth millions to the iconic brand and a staple in the wardrobes of many avid high-flying fashionistas.

Jane Birkin’s appeal never waned, and she was still endorsing brands and appearing on catwalks for designers such as YSL, and Hermès later in life, and even collaborated with A.P.C at the age of 75. She was a poster girl that the high-end fashion magazines also never stopped adoring.  

Her ‘Laissez Faire’ aesthetic portrayed a timelessness rather than ostentatious displays of wealth and she helped propel the ‘Quiet Luxury’ movement Designers such as Brunello Cucinelli are one of its big fashion players in 2023. Her influence will forever live on.

Author: Vicky Hatia